Winter Wonderland: Copenhagen, Bergen, Helsinki and Lapland
The Colors of the Arctic Circle
Having lived in Dubai heat for nearly four years, and as I was leaving, I was hoping to experience the polar opposite. A winter wonderland trip was long in the works. At the time, everything from Scandinavia was really popular, from Scandinavian fiction and TV series, to design and décor. I was really keen on exploring that side of Europe, and booked a two-week trip to winter trip to three Nordic countries: Denmark, Norway and Finland.
Copenhagen: The City of Hygge and Fairytales
Copenhagen is a truly magical city that has inspired the likes of author Hans Christian Anderson, and visitors can instantly see why. The city has one of the world’s most famous and oldest amusement parks, Viking heritage, beautiful old architecture, great museums, a historical canal system, great beer and an attitude of creative a cozy living environment.
A Room with a View
I visited Copenhagen for three nights in mid-November, just as Christmas decorations, which was a great way to start the festive season. And to ensure that I had a truly unique Danish experience, I booked my stay at CPH Living, a large boat turned into a hotel which was parked right on the København canal downtown. From the Copenhagen airport, there is a comfortable train that takes you to the city’s central station in 20 minutes. Because I was travelling for two weeks at the start of winter, I brought a suitcase full of sweaters and winter gear. The train has room to store your luggage. From there, it was a short walk to the hotel. Hotels in Copenhagen can easily start at 200 Euros during busy travel times, but I did lots of research online and found a great hotel somewhere in the 100 range.
My room was just like I imagined it to be: A cozy cabin with oversized windows that overlooked the water. It was an absolute pleasure to open the windows on the foggy mornings, smell the misty air over the river and watch the birds fly by. The temperature during my visit was in the low 10s to about 5 degrees Celsius at night, but my room had good heating. The boat owners were also very hospitable, and I would highly recommend staying at CPH Living for anyone visiting Copenhagen and looking for a unique approach to lodging.
The floating hotel was also docked just across the bridge from the historic center and many tourist attractions in the city. Upon crossing the bridge by foot, it was about a 10-minute walk to Tivoli Gardens and the central square. Tivoli Gardens is a giant amusement park and botanical park, which several exotic gardens, rides and live performances. It is one of the highlight stops that most visitors to Copenhagen prioritize on their itinerary, especially around the holidays. Having opened its doors back in the mid-19th century, it is one of the oldest operating theme parks to this date.
Unfortunately, the park was closed for renovation during my visit for renovation and would only open for Christmas season three days later, after I had already left. I was really disappointed upon learning that I wouldn’t be able to visit Tivoli Gardens. But my next two days were full of visiting inspiring and picturesque places.
Danish-Style Fish and Chips
I went for lunch right by the gardens. Danish food is not particularly famous worldwide. There’s a lot of cured and salted seafood, as well as a regional variation of fish and chips with mashed peas as a condiment. Pork is also very popular as there are actually more pigs than people in Denmark, plus the Danish pastry with fruit jam on top. Denmark is notorious for being expensive. They don’t use the Euros but their own currency, the Danish Krone. While some restaurants offer lunch menus, expect to pay at least 17-30 Euros for a full restaurant meal. Denmark is also a famous beer producer and exporter, but that doesn’t make the drink any less expensive. A pint of local beer will start at 8-10 Euros, even at happy hour.
The downtown of Copenhagen is very flat and highly accessible by foot or bike. Like in Amsterdam, bikes are a very popular means of transportation. It actually reminded me a lot of Amsterdam, with its architecture, charming side streets, weather and bike lanes—however, it feels like a smaller, better kept version of Amsterdam minus all the rowdy tourists. Most sites of interests are located within an hour’s walk of each other, but it is vital to have a map downloaded. The Danish language is not very easy to understand, and street names can be long and confusing. While Danish people are fairly polite, don’t expect anyone on the street to stop and give you direction. Many locals will just walk past lost tourists when approached for help.
After lunch, I went back to my hotel to rest. In the evening, I caught up with a friend who had recently moved to Copenhagen from Dubai for some beer at a local beer. My next two days were focused on museums and sightseeing activities.
The Royal Danish Museum sits right in the middle of Copenhagen and showcases the history of the nation from the stone age to the 21st century. It is a large, multi-level institution housed in a beautiful 18th century palace. You can easily spend hours here, and it is well worth the 15 Euro entry fee. If you happen to be in Copenhagen on a Wednesday, entry to all museums is free. The museum displays Danish history in chronological order. The first exhibition focuses on the stone age, mainly excavations and hunting tools used at the time.
One room that I found particularly dark and unsettling examined the myth of human sacrifice during that era. It is followed by a massive exhibition focused on Norse and Viking artefacts, including helmets, jewelry, coins and combat gear that the warriors wore as they conquered much of Europe and sailed across the Atlantic. There is also a real-life Viking war ship on display. The exhibitions then focus on the Renaissance and the Danish Empire, which spread in pockets as far as the Carribean and modern-day Indonesia. These rooms present a mix of religions art, sculptures and replicas of rooms that show the opulence that the nobility lived in. Finally, visitors are guided to the modern era to show how Danish society has evolved throughout the ages and how it is considered as one of the most socially and economically progressive societies in the 21st century.
A Danish Pastry Shop
Another museum I explored that afternoon was the Design Museum of Denmark. Scandinavian and Danish design concepts are very popular. While they prioritize simplicity and minimalism, the concept of hygge is also a recurring theme in Danish design techniques. Moreso than just design, hygge is somewhat seen as a philosophy. It’s about making the living environment cozy with the use of anything from soft tones and wooden finishing, to candles, accessories and comfortable linens (among other things that make nesting indoors a hobby during the harsh winters).
This quirky design museum, housed in a former hospital, combines everything from graphics and posters, to textiles, fashion and furniture. The styles range from art deco and retro to modern and futuristic, mixing famous Danish minimalism with some very colorful installations in hot pink and neon red. The highlight of the museum is the exhibition of the Danish Chair. It is a long, narrow room with different styles of single-seater chairs on both sides of the wall from floor to ceiling. For lovers of interior design, and modern art in general, the Danish Museum of Design is not to be missed.
On my third and last day in Copenhagen, I had a busy itinerary and got ready for a long day of walking. About 30 minutes away from my hotel is Denmark’s most visited spot: Nyhavn. The long stretch of canal that I walked along was an absolute pleasure, as I got to see buildings from all eras and architectural styles, including some very cool warehouses that have been converted into lofts and residential buildings. There are virtually no skyscrapers in downtown Copenhagen, which actually adds more charm and elegance to the city. Some areas look like they are straight out of a fairytale, it is no wonder then that Copenhagen produced master storytellers such as Hans Cristian Andersen. In a way, the enduring beauty of Copenhagen is a tribute to its most famous resident, where his legacy lives on, and where magic and fantasy are not too far out of reach.
The district of Nyhavn wasn’t always a tourist spot. In another era, it a more derelict harbour popular with sailors crossing the Baltic Sea who docked their ships to visit the local bars and brothels. Today, however, it is an upmarket neighborhood with boutiques, restaurants and tour operators offering canal boat rides. Both sides of the canal are lined with several blocks of coloured townhouse-style buildings that commonly feature on Copenhagen postcards. As I visited, there was also a small outdoor Christmas market with souvenir stalls and mulled wine.
I struggled to find a spot for lunch since most restaurants cater to tourists and are not very authentic, but then settled for a seafood place with a lunch menu and a view of the boats passing the famous canal.
The Little Mermaid Statue
From Nyhavn, it was about another 25 minutes to reach my next destination: the Little Mermaid statue in the Langelinie Pier. While this attraction ranks really high on the list of things to do in Copenhagen, I found it to be quite underwhelming. It is quite small in size, with just a sculpture of a mermaid sitting on top of a group of large round rocks in the water. Still, this doesn’t deter the millions of visitors who come to the promenade to take selfies with Hans Cristian Andersen’s most famous fictional character. Not all attention directed at the mermaid is that of respect and admiration—the statue has been vandalized and restored numerous times.
The list of things to do and see in Copenhagen is really long. Sadly, my trip here was coming to an end. My last stop for that afternoon, also within walking distance, was the Round Tower. Copenhagen’s Round Tower, or known locally as the Rundetaarn, is another iconic building that was constructed in the 17th century, when astrology and scientific discoveries marked the Renaissance era. The cylindrical tower houses a church and a library at its base. What makes it different from other towers and tall observatories is that the top is reached by a cobblestone spiral ramp instead of stairs. In the past, that helped chariots reach the top more easily. The white walls blend harmoniously with the cobblestone floor, forming sort of an upward maze that was a pleasure to discover. The ramp also made the climb up seem much easier than less daunting than if I had had to climb stairs. Once at the top, visitors are rewarded of an immersive view of the city.
It is easy to see how Copenhagen’s beauty made it capture the hearts and minds of storytellers. And to this day, I consider it to be one of the prettiest cities in Europe.
Hans Christian Andersen, Copenhagen’s Most Famous and Celebrated Resident
Bergen: The Capital of the Fjords
My next stop on my Scandinavia trip was Bergen, Norway’s second largest city. I had heard mixed reviews about the capital city, Oslo, so naturally my first choice was to visit Oslo’s more beautiful cousin to the west. I flew from Copenhagen to Bergen on KLM via Amsterdam. I was unable to find direct flights on my travel date. Travelling with luggage also made the flights more expensive, but I couldn’t pack light for this long trip.
Traditional Shophouses in the Bryggen Harbor, Old Bergen
Upon arriving at the airport, I took a shuttle bus for about 15 Euros that took me right to the doorstep of my hotel. While Copenhagen is an expensive destination, Norway is definitely a step up from there. But don’t let the high prices discourage you. Because it was slightly off-season, I was able to find a four-star hotel in a prime location in Bergen for under $100, with breakfast included. I booked three nights at the upscale and very comfortable Radisson Royal hotel in the popular and historic Bryggen district. Like much of coastal Norway, Bergen was established as an important fishing hub, slowly spreading outside the wharf of Bryggen between the 14th and 16th century.
The hotel is located right by St Mary’s Church, which is particularly atmospheric and gothic looking in the foggy evenings. From there, Bryggen extends for about 7X3 blocks of narrow, adjacent brick and wooden houses. It was housed the head office Hanseatic League, a highly successful commercial network, all the way back to the 1300s. The area has a rich architectural history, albeit most of the original houses were destroyed big large fires (and restored) since then. Many of the existing buildings today date back to the 1700s and were used as warehouses that fueled Bergen’s dominance as a fishing and commercial hub. Today, visitors walk through the mazes of old warehouses, tucked away behind the main strip, that today have been transformed into small bars and artisanal shops.
On a clear day, the main strip of Bryggen reflects on the water, and the snowcapped hills embracing it from behind give it an extra dramatic effect. It is in this way (combined with a small-town-within-a-city vibe) that Bryggen is very reminiscent of waterfront towns in Western Canada such as Victoria, and parts of Vancouver, where I lived for many years.
From there, it’s a few minutes by foot to Bergen’s point of hustle and bustle: The fish market and the harbor. The fish market has endless varieties of fish and seafood in very neatly organized stalls, with tables and for visitors to eat right there. Again, don’t expect low prices, even at a local market. I ordered a medium-sized fish soups (more like a bisque with virtually no chunks of fish) which cost around 25 Euros-the most I have even paid for a soup. It did come with a view of the harbor, and the many motorboats and cruise ships making their way around the harbor. Thankfully, the breakfast option at my hotel was plentiful, with great variety of cured meats and Norway’s most famous food exports: smoked salmon and Jarlsberg cheese. Norwegians are also some of the world’s biggest consumers of coffee, and coffee on-the-go throughout the day helped me overcome the damp cold in what’s considered to be one of Europe’s rainiest cities.
Bergen City Views from the Ferry
I came back to the harbor the next day for the highlight activity of my Bergen stay: a fjord cruise. As the land of the fjords, Bergen’s most impressive natural wonders are a ferry boat ride away from the city’s main port. Once at the port, there are a few tour operators who offer the tour, so you can purchase it right there. You should go in the morning to ensure a seat, and because it starts getting dark in the late afternoon in the winter months. My tour cost about 70 Euros for 4 hours in total. The boat itself is large, and there were about 50-100 people on the cruise. It comes with an observation deck on the second floor, and a small coffee and hotdog shop in the closed area below.
The waters here are so pristine and steep tree-covered mountains with waterfalls. The highlight of the tour is the narrow Mostraumen straight, with little traditional houses adorning both sides of the shore like something out of a postcard—the foggy air adds even more awe-inspiring views. It does get very windy and wet onboard, so make sure to warm, windproof and waterproof attire is a must. As part of the tour, we got to get very close to the Mostraumen waterfall and the cruise attendant collected the water and shared it with us.
Taking a Fjord Cruise is the Number One Thing to Do in Bergen
On my last day in Bergen, I took a short walk from my hotel to the fortress. For lovers of Medieval architecture, this castle complex is not to be missed. At its center, the Gothic-style Haakons Hall building stands as testament to the kingdom’s might back when it was in a union with Denmark. The Danes and Norwegians are very closely related in ethnicity, culture and language and are direct descendants of the Vikings.
After the fortress and returning to Bryggen, it was about a 15-minute walk to take the funicular up to Fjellveien hill. For those who enjoy hiking, the summit can actually be reached by foot. Once at the top, the full view of the city below are very rewarding, especially on a sunny day. From there, there are a few more trails where one can explore the nearby woods, a few small park installations from Norse folklore and mythology. Once there, visitors are also in for a surprise when they meet the furry local residents: there are mountain goats grazing and roaming around freely there. All of them are well-taken care of with digital collars attached that react to digital fences. They are quite friendly and unintimidated by the visiting tourists that they share the mountain with, but there are signs asking people to not feed them.
For those looking for a tranquil Scandinavian destination that mixes culture with nature, Bergen is a great option. If you’re lucky, you can sometimes see the northern lights or aurora Borealis in Bergen. However, I had that in my plan for Lapland, my last destination in the two-week trip.
Helsinki: The Quirkiest City in Northern Europe
From the Bergen airport, I took a 2-hour direct flight to Helsinki, Finland’s capital. Finnish people have a very strong relationship with the forest, and their culture revolves heavily around the woods and nature. That is obvious as soon as you land in Helsinki airport, with colored wood and scenes of wildlife illustrating the airport terminal. From there, it was less than 5 Euros to take a 30-minute train to the central station. Unlike Denmark, Sweden and Noway, the local currency in Finland is the Euro. Still, prices are only slightly lower than in the neighboring Scandinavian countries. Once outside the central train station, I got on one of Helsinki’s famous trolley buses or streetcars for a quick ride to my hotel. While it didn’t take much time, I do not suggest getting on with luggage, as the ride is not very smooth and my luggage (and myself) almost fell down several times.
Finland’s Mix of Neighboring Cultures Influenced its Architecture
I booked my 2 night stay at the then newly-opened Clarion Hotel for about 140 Euros a night. The hotel is in the Jätkäsaari district, by the sea harbor. It is close enough to the center, but in a more quiet residential area. The design of the hotel is sleek and modern, with great views of the sea. The lobby and rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated. Riding up in the glass elevator offers panoramic views of the container ships at the harbor and the Baltic Sea. The best part is reserved for the rooftop, with an open-air hot swimming pool and a gleaming sauna. Sauna is a huge part of Finnish culture. Out of a population of about 5 million, there are rumored to be over 2 million saunas. Even small apartments come equipped with their own sauna.
I arrived later in the afternoon and I was already dark outside. It gets dark and gloomy very early in Helsinki in November. On the other hand, those who visit in the summer can enjoy the sunlight until close to midnight. Statistically, the people of Finland (or Suomi in the local language) rank as the happiest in the world. I, however, wouldn’t trust those stats solely considering the notoriously gloomy winter weather. I had kept most of my sightseeing plans in Helsinki for the following day, but there was one district that I wanted to visit in the evening.
I went to the Kallio district by taxi. As soon as you enter the district, you are met by its most imposing iconic and imposing structure, the Kallio church. The architecture of the church is uniquely Finish protestant in early 20th century with art-nouveau influences. It’s a grandiose building, that is clearly seen even at nighttime, as it the light projects against its white marble exterior.
Kallio is Helsinki’s bohemian district, where artists, writers and the fringe congregate. It was a weekday, so there weren’t many people out at the time. I did manage to do a quick bar hop to see how the local spend their evenings. The bars in Helsinki are very eclectic in their décor, and the district caters to many subcultures. As a fun fact, Heavy Metal music is still very popular in Finland, which boasts the world’s highest concentration of metal bands. The locals are renowned for their peculiar, dry humor and are some of the world’s heaviest drinkers. Nonetheless, Helsinki is one of the safest cities in the world and I enjoyed my evening walk around quirky Kallio-even though most of its vintage and concept stores were closed at the time of my visit.
Helsinki is a city of many landmark churches. Nestled right in between Scandinavia and Russia, Finland’s geography has had a direct impact on the empires it was once part of, and the cultural influences left behind. While the Danes and Norwegians share a very close cultural lineage, the Finns stand out in terms of their language, culture and heritage—not officially part of Scandinavia, but a Nordic country that is a close ally. Oddly enough and despite the vast geographical distance, Finns are more closely related to the Hungarians than they are to the Danes, Swedes or Norwegians. Throughout history, Finland had been swallowed by both, Viking and Russian kingdom, both of which have had a visible mark on its architecture. As for those who are interested in learning the Finnish language, best of luck. It is one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn.
For the next day, I had a busy itinerary planned out with lots of sightseeing and a winter outdoor bathing experience. After a quick breakfast at my hotel, I took the streetcar to the city center. I took a walk along the central streets beautifully decorated for the holidays. The Stockmann department store had one of the coolest Christmas window displays that I had seen, with colorful unicorns popping right out. For lovers of fashion and design, the local brand Marimekko has very elaborate textiles, garments and home accessories with very unique and cheerful prints. Prices are on the higher side, but you can pick up a smaller souvenir such as a mug, scarf or table napkins for under 20 Euros.
My first stop on the church tour was the Kamppi Chapel (also known as ‘the silent church’) located at Narinkka Square. Finland is an overwhelmingly Protestant country, and that adds several layers of austerity and simplicity in how places of worship are decorated. The Kamppi Chapel is a prime example of that austerity. The exterior of this church instantly calls the attention of passersby and visitors. Its curved, wooden design resembles that of an old ship (perhaps Noah’s Ark). Once inside, the bare wooden walls and simple benches provide a humbling experience. There altar is just as simple with a small wooden podium for sermons. There are no shiny, decorative fixtures or icons hanging from the walls, as one would expect from a Lutheran church. Even the crucifix at the altar is barely visible. Despite its simplicity, the Kamppi Chapel has received several architectural awards. Its vision is to allow visitors and worshippers to embrace complete silence and to allow for reflection in one of the busiest neighborhoods of Helsinki. No speaking, photography or videos are allowed inside.
The Kamppi Chapel is a Prime Example of Finnish Minimalism
About a 20 minute walk from the Kamppi Chapel is the city’s main landmark, the Helsinki Cathedral. It is an elegant neoclassical building dating back to the mid-19th century. It sits on top of large stairs where locals hang out to pass time and enjoy the surrounding views. Similarly to the Kamppi Chapel, and as with most Lutheran churches, simplicity and austerity are the key design ingredients.
The colors are soft and restrained, and there are no large icons of saints adorning the walls. The focus here is on the geometry and use of space. In stark contrast to the Helsinki Cathedral, the nearby Uspenski Cathedral celebrates ornamentation in true Russian Orthodox tradition. It is impossible to miss the red structure and turquoise blue dome. It is the largest Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe, and its interior is lavishly decorated from wall to ceiling in gold plated icons commemorating the saints revered in Eastern Christianity.
In stark contrast to the Helsinki Cathedral, the nearby Uspenski Cathedral celebrates ornamentation in true Russian Orthodox tradition. It is impossible to miss the red structure and turquoise blue dome. It is the largest Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe, and its interior is lavishly decorated from wall to ceiling in gold plated icons commemorating the saints revered in Eastern Christianity. This church was commissioned by Russian tzar Alexander the Great. Helsinki’s not-too-distant past as part of the Russian empire lingers to this day and one of Helsinki’s most iconic streets was named after this ruler. Alexander Street is gorgeous during the holiday season, with Christmas lights hanging over both sides of the narrow shopping street, providing an opportunity for a postcard-worthy picture as the vintage streetcars pass through. All that was missing was the snow, which came later than usual that season.
From there, I walked along the panoramic seaside promenade to get to Market Square to sample local produce and for a hearty lunch. The indoor market has a wide variety of Nordic and international foods. It is one of the few places in Helsinki where you can have a full lunch with herring, salmon and potatoes or a soup bowl with rye bread for about 15 Euros or less. Tipping is not customary in Finland and Nordic countries, so the quality of service is very basic. Some places will even charge for things we take for granted in other countries, such as sauce or dressing. Wages here are high for service workers, so don’t expect anyone to go out of their way when you visit food stalls or eating establishments.
A Panoramic View of Helsinki from the Seaside Boardwalk
My last stop for the day, Allas Sea Pool, was the definitely the exciting. For about 22 Euros, you can swim in an outdoor heated infinity pool on the Baltic Sea—while taking in the view of the Ferris wheel and Helsinki’s most popular sites—and have a sauna experience with the locals. It was a weekday afternoon, so the pool was not too crowded. The temperature was just perfect, with a thick cloud of warm steam rising from the pool and into the cold late-November air. Saunas are gender segregated and roomy. Considering my level of tolerance and experience with hot temperatures, I lasted about 20 minutes in the sauna. You can go in and out many times, taking breaks in between to cool off and enjoy the outdoor pool, which is a unique experience that only a country like Finland can offer in the wintertime.
After a long day of walking, cultural exploration, and a very relaxing bathing experience, my trip to Helsinki was complete. In fact, Helsinki has a certain charm that grows on you the more you discover it. There are many more museums I would have explored, as well as the famous Suomenlinna Fortress by ferry (albeit with warmer temperatures), had I had more time. What I had initially planned to be a stopover onto my next destination in Finland truly exceeded my expectations. I hope to visit Helsinki in the summer, when the sun doesn’t set before 10 PM and when there are plenty of outside activities to enjoy.
Helsinki is Much More Interesting and Fun Than I Had Expected
Rovaniemi: Home of Santa Claus and Capital of Lapland
The city of Rovaniemi is all the way up north and inside the Arctic circle. As the largest city in Lapland or Sápmi: an ethnocultural region spreading across northern Finland, Sweden and Norway. Lapland is home to the Native Sami People, aurora borealis or Northern Lights, and reindeer. Additionally, popular folklore and legends have made this region the birthplace and home of Santa Claus. No winter wonderland trip to the Nordics would have been complete without ending in this mysterious and faraway destination.
Rovaniemi, on the Edge of the Arctic Circle, is the Capital of Finnish Lapland
From Helsinki, I took a 90-minute flight with Finnair to reach Rovaniemi, where I had booked my stay for 4 nights at the Arctic City Hotel. The hotel offers modern amenities and is very centrally located, with shuttle bus service to and from the airport. The region is famous for log cabin and igloo types of accommodation, but I chose a more traditional type of hotel given its location and easier access to transportation. My room cost just under $100 per night. At the time, it was one of the only four-star hotels in Rovaniemi. While not luxurious by any means, my room was comfortable and well-heated, and the hotel has a restaurant and a small bar/nightclub that is popular with guests as well as locals. As one would expect from any Finnish hotel or rental studio, the hotel also came with a sauna, which was particularly enjoyable at night given the freezing temperature.
The Arctic City Hotel is about a minute’s walk from the town’s main square, or Lordi’s Square. Here you can find plenty of chain restaurants, local bars, a department store, as well as modern shopping mall. As a popular tourist destination, the city center is well developed and there is no shortage of food or shopping options—despite the remote location. Much of the city was destroyed during WW2, so all buildings were constructed thereafter. It is not particularly a beautiful city and is more on the gritty side. Most of what makes Rovaniemi so popular revolves around the outdoor adventures, northern lights trips and the Santa Claus-themed parks. Still, there are a couple of places worth exploring within the city center.
The Arcticum Museum caters to lovers of both, science and history. It is a science center and a museum with several exhibition halls. Here, visitors can learn about the region’s ecology, wildlife and natural phenomena such as the northern lights and global warming in the arctic. It also gives a glimpse into Indigenous Sami culture and simulations of Sami homes, trades and their way of life. It also documents how the region has developed over the past centuries as it was absorbed into mainstream Finland. The installations are very informative and interactive and there is even an aurora borealis, which is kind of like a planetarium but for the Northern Lights instead of stars and constellations.
The Rovaniemi Church and WW2 Memorial
Another point of interest within walking distance is the Rovaniemi Church. The church, as with most of the town, were destroyed in the fierce Battle of Lapland. It was then reconstructed in the 1950s and as a symbol of Finnish resilience. It is known for its mosaic mural, which is a bit unusual for Lutheran and Protestant churches. Unfortunately, it was closed when I visited so I could not see the interior. The nearby Lumberjack Candle Bridge crosses the Kemijoki River. Finished in 1989 it pays homage to the Lumberjack, with two red lights at the top resembling a candle flame. It makes for a nice photo background. I got to visit as the first frost flakes were falling. There wasn’t enough snow during my stay in Rovaniemi, which did take some of the magic out of my ‘Winter Wonderland’ experience.
The Rovaniemi Lumberjack Candle Bridge is One of Rovaniemi’s Very Few Architectural Landmarks
If all tourist traps had a head office, it would probably be in Rovaniemi—specifically the Santa Claus Village. Legend has it that Santa Claus lives in the Arctic, and local authorities did capitalize on that. The Santa Claus Village is a large park that revolves around all things Christmas, with figures of Santa, Elfs and reindeer spread out around the park and the many shops selling Christmas paraphernalia. Located around half an hour away from the city center by bus, the gates remind visitors that they are inside the arctic circle. You can stand in line for about another 30 minutes to take a picture with Santa Claus and interaction is kept at 15 seconds. However, if you want to keep the picture, bear in mind that it will cost upwards of 25 Euros for both, print and digital version.
Taking a Picture with Santa at the Santa Claus Village: A Photo Opp that Thousands of Tourists Wait in Line for
Another disappointment I had in Lapland was not being able to see the Northern Lights, despite November being a good time to see them. I had booked a tour at an office downtown for this experience for about 60 Euros. We were given winter gear there, and about 40 of us were hauled into a bus away from the city center. We reached a remote cabin with traditional Lappish décor, and from there we had to climb up a slippery hill. Lights pollution affects visibility, so it is best to head to faraway places with minimal electricity. Once at the top, all we had to do was wait. One or two hours had gone by, and we were still out in the freezing cold without any hint of the aurora borealis. It all depends on chance and there are no guarantees that you will actually see the northern lights. The guides are very knowledgeable and patient, though, and if you don’t get to see this natural phenomenon on your first visit, you get a 50% discount for your second attempt. I did take this tour twice, but the northern lights just refused to appear during both my visit. It all comes down to luck.
On my last day, I booked an Airbnb Experience to visit a local reindeer farm. That was perhaps the highlight of my stay in Rovaniemi. The tour was small and personalized and we got to step interact with the reindeer and learn more about this mythical creature that is popularized by fairytales. They were very friendly and curious, and approached us without much hesitation. The farm is a prime example of what one would expect from a true Lappish Experience. It was also situated on the banks of a frozen river, so we had a lot of fun walking on the ice and taking memorable pictures there.
Trying Reindeer Meat for the First Time
My Nordic adventure ended here, and I had visited 3 countries and 4 distinct regions within 2 weeks. Despite it being one of the costlier trips that I had taken, I was awarded with beautiful architecture and natural wonders that inspire fairytales and holiday traditions. One day, I will be back to visit this part of the world during the summer months for a completely different tourist experience.
